Cold Bath Time Machine

1/31/2017 ment an early wake up call for Kari and Scott, 6:45 breakfast and out the door for our adventure.  Juan Carlos, our guide, was ready to rock and roll as we headed to the ATM Cave tour.

The Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave is famous for its Mayan pottery and skeletal remains.  It is consider by some the must do activity when in western Belize.  Jaun Carlos has been taking people to this cave for over 20 years and audited basically 6 years of college class in archeology and anthropology.  Again, we should all be very careful judging a book by its cover.  

After our 1 hour car ride, we arrived at the ATM cave.  If you look at trip advisor this is either a moment of great anticipation as you get ready to step back into history or a moment of terror as you think about being semisubmerged in cold cave water and possibly scrambling up slippy rocks as you attempt not to dislocate your shoulder or fracture your tibia.

For the rest of this post,  you need to use your imagination.  In 2012, a tourist dropped his camera on a human skull shattering it.  Since then no cameras are allowed in the cave without a government permit.

Here is a link

https://www.belize.com/actun-tunichil-muknal

Now Kari and I are ready to go.  Trucks, shoes, shirts, socks for the upper chamber, OK, Let's roll.

 

Before we go.  I totally look like a dirty Steve you would meet wandering in a cave.

Juan Carlos fitted us with some helmets and we were off.  Step 1:  cross the River not once but 3 times.  At least the first one is only over your head so you swim along holding a rope.  Nothing like a brisk 8 AM river swim to knock loose the morning rust.  The next 2 river crossings were less stressful as the water was only knee to thigh deep.   After about 30 minutes of hiking we reached the cave entrance.  Again you can see why the Mayans believed caves were sacred places connecting us to the underworld and the earth.

Head lamps on and away we go.  10 steps in, we drop into a hole up to our necks and have to swim across.  Probably wouldn't have been bad if the temperature had been a little bit warmer.  We scrabbled through and over narrow limestone ledges and crevasses. We would stop along the way and discuss Mayan civilization and its decline.  

We discussed how the Mayans modified the natural rock outcropping so that in the light of torches the rocks would appear to be the moving figures in the cave.  We discussed how most were probably intoxicated on a mixture of mushrooms, water lilies and morning glories.  These may have been consumed as an enema.  That is why in the flickering light of the cave some Mayans believed they actually turned into a jaguars.

The cave is stained with various colors as they leach into the limestone.  Copper is blue, Iron is red.  Surfer is yellow.  Manganese is black.  Calcite is white.   Given this mix you can see why the Mayans may have believed the world came from the caves;  blue/water, yellow/sun, white/clouds, red/earth and black/night.  

Juan Carlos stopped and showed us stelegmites that were  broken off by the ancient Mayans.  Why because when banged on they make musical tones much like a 900 AD xylophone.  Imagine ScottyRob banging out hallucinogenic induced club music on some broken stelegmites.  It was truely amazing to hear in the acoustics of the cave.

We discussed the blood letting rituals which would involve piercing yourself with a stinger from a sting ray, mixing this with ash and burning it as you watch the snake of smoke rise.  You need to be high to pierce yourself where the Mayans were piercing themselves for these rituals.  We could see a stelagmite carved as a stingray barb

We finally entered the upper chamber and were able to view ancient pottery and several sets of incomplete human remains.  A baby, around 9-12 months old, a dwarf, fingers, several human skulls which were misshapen from the Mayan practice of placing boards on the forehead at infancy to modify the development of the skull.  At the end we reached the preserved remains of a single human.  Near complete.  Juan Carlos asked if I thought it was a male or female.  I said male, he informed me that up until a few years ago most believed the remains to be female but an archeologist from the University of Montana analysised it felt it was male as well based on pelvis shape and size.

We were the first group of the day in the cave and to complete the tour.   We passed a group of old dudes some may have been Rhodes scholars.  They couldn't hang with our skill in the cave.  It was nice to be on the way out while everyone else was waiting to go up and in.  

We scrambled out and were finally greeted by a little warm sun.  A quick rinse and a change of clothes and we finally sat down for lunch.

 

We survived and we are still smiling.

Lunch included salads, fruit and for me 3 ice cold Belikins.  After that it was back to the resort to catch a little afternoon sun.  

Juan Carlos, Kari and I celebrate a safe return to the resort. 

Diner was fabulous as was the beer.  Tomorrow, we will head to the beach.  

 

Filet, potatoes and vegetables.  Beer not pictured 

If Juan Carlos emails me some picture, I will include them in an update.

The River Styx

Jan 30 started early as well.  Up before 7, breakfast and on the road by 8 with our trusted guide Andee.  Over the bumpy roads, which were now even worse thanks to the torrential rain we enjoyed last night.

We arrived a Barton Creek Cave.  It is an ancient Mayan site that can only be explored by canoe.

 

The entrance to Barton Creek Cave.  You can see why the Mayans believed it may be one of the entrance to the 9 levels of the underworld.

 

The cave and our canoe

 

The before selfie.  Is Kari nervous??   Warning to all my young readers, sometime after you become a father you will begin to look dorky in all your photos.  Father  Time is undefeated.

 

The paddle in.  How much courage would it take to go in here with some torches and a dugout canoe.

 

Stalactites !!!!!!

 

These look like a chandelier.  Formed as the water drips down on you.  The river decided it was easier to cut through the limestone then to flow around it.  This allowed for the creation of this massive cave which is 50 meters tall at points.

 

This rock bridge allowed Mayans to cross back and forth over the river within the cave.  The cave was a source of mystical power for the Mayans.  The Mayans performed blood letting rituals, human sacrifices and fertility rituals here.  Just your typical family fun night in 800 AD.

 

This is the remnant of a Mayan skull the teeth are facing at us like if someone had there mouth open the zygomatic are is on the right.  Interesting and Creepy all at the same time.

 

A perfectly preserved Mayan clay pot

 

Paddling out of the cave.  We had to back track the water was so high from the rain that the cave was impassible at one point.  How relieved you you be to see the jungle again.  I was very relieved because I thought Kari was going to capsize us at least once.  Kari had a slight freak out over some bats and nearly sent us all for a bath.  We manage to right the ship and continue on our adventure dry and happy.

 

Andee, Kari and my right ear leaving the cave.

 

I survived and my wife is smiling. Whoa, how did that happen.

From Barton Creek we head back to San Ignacio to learn about chocolate. (This one is for you Katie).  Adrian and Elida discussed the history of Chocolate in Belize.  Kari and I then grounded our own chocolate beans and enjoyed traditional Mayan chocolate drinks.

Chocolate has been enjoyed by Mayan kings and commoners for centuries.  There are pieces of pottery over 2600 years old that contain chocolate residue.  

The chocolate bean actually comes from the Cacao fruit. (Peter that little piece of trivia is fro your crew) Cacao are grown in southern Belize but there is also a small area along the river by San Ignacio.  Adrian and his wife Elida receive the Cacao fruit, remove the beans, ferment and dry them and then roast the beans in iron pots over slow heat.

 

Dried seeds. on top, Roasted seeds on the right.  Ground seeds on the left.  Now we must use a traditional Mayan press to grind the Cacao seeds into a chocolate paste.

 

Adrian grinding the seeds.

 

Kari grinding Cacao seeds to chocolate paste.  I think we might need a little more sweat equity here.

Elida bailed us out.  It was almost mesmerizing watching her work this dished piece of carved volcanic rock with the straight crushing piece.

 

The chocolate paste

 

Add hot water, honey and your choice of cinnamon, pepper or all spice, your choice Stir it up and enjoy the same drink that Mayan kings enjoyed.  It was great.

 Cheers!!! Cacao on the table.  My dork factor is high in this picture.  I miss Ashely and Katie telling me to fix myself up so I don't look like a fool in my pictures.

 

The chocolate shop.  Natural chocolate is suppose to help fight depression, atherosclerosis, hypertension and Alzheimer's disease.  The B vitamins are suppose to be good for your skin and some claim it is an aphrodisiac, so I got that going for me.

We then we headed to one of the favorite local restaurants, 

Cenaida's

 

Before I could eat, Andee and I had to help one of the locals push start his Isuzu Trooper.  Unfortunately he was parked on a slight hill and the driver had a little trouble telling theclutch from break.  We did get it moving and I am writing this blog so you know it didn't roll back and crush me.

After that hard work we had an amazing lunch.  Kari enjoyed stewed chicken, beans & rice.  I had chilantro grilled chicken, beans & rice and s couple of well deserved Belikins.  Local restaurants like this give you the vibe of the people, the city and their food.  No matter where I am at, I love to find a local hangout.  This one certainly fit the bill.

 

A final selfie after lunch with our main man, Andee.  We returned to the resort.  Kari decided to take in the spa and I decide to chill by the pool.  The rest of our day should be quiet, but who knows.  Maybe I will wander off into the jungle to look for a jaguar, I never did find a leopard.

Not much happened after this. We ate dinner.  I enjoyed then native beer of Belize, again.  Kari read the Trip Advisor reviews of our cave tour tomorrow and became anxious and we settled into bed.

 

We find this in our room every night.  Tonight we enjoyed a lemon merinage treat.

Nitey Night, tomorrow may be epic.  Epic failure, epic adventure, epic couple fight.  Jesus better take the wheel and drive.

Oh me Oh Mayan

Any normal couple without kids for the first time in 5 years probably would have slept in and enjoyed a leisurely breakfast.  That is not us, this decision clearly reflects a lack of common sense on our part.

6:30 AM, alarm goes off and we slowly roll out of bed,  load up the new waterproof backpack and head to the lobby for a quick bite before we head off to explore the Ancient Mayan Ruins of Caracol.  It was too hot for a fedora, leather jacket and I had no place for my bullwhip, Peter that reference is for you.

Andee, our guide greeted us promptly at 7:30 and we were off.  With enthusiasm, we asked, "How far to the ruins?"  Andee calmly notified us that we should relax and enjoy our 2 and 1/2 hour car ride.   Ugghh, I can't even wait in line at Chipotle how am I gonna survive this.  

Andee was amazing he managed to keep Kari and I engaged in conversation for 2 and 1/2 hours.  He called my wife, Miss Kari.  Andee had some amazing stories to tell about growing up on the Belize and Guatemalan border.  He jumped out of a 3 story building and tore his ACL, had it reconstructed in Guatemala.  He probably was in a common growth and distribution organization in Central America.  He met a good woman and turned his life around and eventually studied some tourism at the university.   He may buy some land and raise royal rodents.

On the way we stopped at our first cave, Rio Frio Cave.  It was crazy to see the size of this cave.  These caves are created as the water seeks the path of least resistance through the limestone rather than over it.

 

Kari and I in front of the cave

 

A view through the cave

 

Selfie Nation: 2 is easier than 5 or 9 or 10

From the cave we headed to the Caracol Mayan Ruins.  This may have been on of the 5 worst roads I have ever been on.  We survived and eventually made it there.

Caracol represents the largest Mayan City in Belize. Right now only about 5% has been excavated and explored.  It was ruled by Lord Water.  Under Lord Water , Caracol defeated Tikal.

 

These are two giant Cebia trees each over 100 years old.  Can you find us?

 

Same trees

We then ventured into the first set of ruins.

 

Most of the ruins were arranged with building to the North, South,East and West

 

 A room inside the ruins.  Check the B&W out EB!!

 

This is the ball court where Mayan played games.  Some historians think they were reenactments of battles.  The winners were predetermined.  There is a pedestal in the middle.

 

Look at the ruins!!!! 

 

Pedestal marker may represent the conquer with their bound hands,  this may reflect Lord Waters defeat of Tikal and Naranjo.

The astronomy building.  The sun would rise in the east over the central building.  Over the left on the summer solstice and the right on the winter solstice.

 

 Toucans in the trees of Belize.  Yes, TB you need a big lens to see these birds.

 

Kari and I in front of Caana, Sky Place.  It is 42 meters or 140 feet above the jungle canopy.

 

A selfie at the top of Caana.

 

The tomb at the top.  This may have been for the Queen of Lord Water.  The tomb is straight and down. Straight ahead is the alter for sacrifices or tributes.

 

Mayan carvings in the stone

 

Kari at the top of Caana

 

Inside a tomb on the right side of Caana.  I almost perished in here.  We say a bat with Andee and I was almost trampled by my wife in her bid to escape the sleeping bat.  The tomb goes farther down through the hole in the middle of the picture.

 

Down on the courtyard from Caana

 

Caana in B&W from the courtyard

We enjoyed a nice lunch.  I had a salad.  It isn't whey protein but it is a start.

 

Frolicking in Rio Pools after lunch.  Kari elected to sun on a rock.

 

Rio pools.  The granite river cutting through the rain forest.

 

Kari and Andee insisted that we stop at the junction for a Belikin.  Kari refused to try termites.  He did buy some green salted mango from a roadside vendor.  I ate 2-3 slices.  I required 6 Belikins to rehydrate. 

 

Kari wanted to use Andee's machete at least once before the day was over.

In the end, Andee joined Martin and Pasco in the long line of great guides who have made me laugh, think and learn.  No matter where you are in the world, there are more things that make us the same then make us different.  

Kari has been asleep for about an hour so the grammar check on this will happen in the AM.